How to replace injectors and injector pump for a 2006 Dodge 2500 Diesel?

I have a 2006 Dodge 2500 diesel in the shop. The dealer is saying it is bad diesel that has clogged up my injectors and they will not cover it. My insurance company sent a Lab to test the diesel, the lab says the diesel is good. Now the insurance will not cover the repairs, the dealer will not cover under warranty, and I’m stuck with a $10,000.00 repair bill. What does it take to repair myself, possibly using rebuilt injectors?

it probably wasn’t teh fuel. more likely a inferior fuel filter. i don’t kow your situation, but i assume the injector pump pistons and injector nozzles are worn from debris. there are 3 approved fuel filters for a cummins engine. cummins, fleetguard, and mopar. they are all made by fleetguard, a division of cummins. they are extremely tolerance, down to just a couple microns. ALL other filters let debris into the fuel system. napa, wix, fram, stp, etc are all bad filters. aftermarket filters can let as much as 40 microns or more pass into the system. drivers using aftermarket fuel filters are having injectors replaced at 75,000 miles because of wear. aftermarket oil filters have also been destroying engines. the biggest culprit has been fram. the paper element in the filter actually loses some of its fiber. it goes straight from teh oil cooler coming out of the filter into the j jet gallery. teh j jets are nozzles with small openings that spray the bottoms of the pistons with cooled oil to keep them cool. the first place the filter fibers go is into the j jet holes and clogs them. the pistons promplty melt. it is not the engine’s fault, it is the cheap oil filter, so it is not a warrantable repair. i wonder what teh dealer means by bad fuel. are tehy saying it was contaminated or what? if you have had gasoline in your tank it will destroy the injectors and teh pump. have you every put gas in it? the diesel is the only thing that lubricates and cools the pump and injectors and gas does not lubricate. the tolerances in the pump are extremely tight. if you hold one of the pump ipstons in your hand and let it warm up, it expands enough that it will not install into the bore of the pump. you see how quickly it can ba damaged. as for the repair itself, you might be able to do it if you are pretty mechanically inclined. you need to remove the lines from the rail. remove the valve cover, all 6 exhaust rocker arms. remove the air intake tube and heater grid from head. remove the injector harness. remove the connector tube nuts from outside the head. you will need a connector tube puller. you can get one from miller tools, snap on, etc. remove all connector tubes. remove the 2 8mm bolts holding each injector. there is a special puller for the injector, but i have had good luck pulling them out with channel locks. be careful not to break the plastic top. reinstall new injector. hand tighten the mounting bolts just barely by hand. install the connector tube and nut, and hand tighten. (11 ft lbs) alternately tighten the injector bolts to 89 in lbs. do a final torque on the connector tube nut to 37 ft lbs. repleat 5 more times. reinstall teh rocker arms, torque, adjust valve lash. reinstall all fuel lines. remove belt. remove pump nut cover from timing cover. remove teh nut from the pump shaft. do not drop lockwasher into timing cover, you will have to go in after it. remove inlet, outlet, and return lines from injector pump. remove the pump to timing cover nuts. use a steering wheel puller to pop gear loose from pump shaft. remove pump. clean new pump shaft and pump gear with window cleaner. all sulphur has to be removed. if it is reinstalled with oil on the gear or shaft, you torque the shaft nut down against the oil. teh sulphur crushes and becomes just like graphite-a lubricant. the gear can spin on the shaft and destroy the pump and gear. reinstall the pump, torque nut to around 110 ft lbs (email me if you do this and i will give you the exact spec). reinstall everything. engine will start on its own. you do not have to open any lines to bleed it. opening a line is extremely dangerous. the reman injectors are $580 each, the pump is 2170. the brans new pump is 2425, teh new injectors are 1035 apeice. i would definitely go with the reman stuff. just a little hint–go to a big truck shop that is a cummins dealer. tehy will get you teh exact same parts as a chrysler dealer but may be cheaper. feel free to email if you have any more questions.

wow. i guess time flies when you are typing about diesels!

This entry was posted on Sunday, February 3rd, 2013 at 3:41 am and is filed under dealer tools. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

2 Responses to “How to replace injectors and injector pump for a 2006 Dodge 2500 Diesel?”

  1. sprinkles Says:

    February 3rd, 2013 at 9:18 am

    it probably wasn’t teh fuel. more likely a inferior fuel filter. i don’t kow your situation, but i assume the injector pump pistons and injector nozzles are worn from debris. there are 3 approved fuel filters for a cummins engine. cummins, fleetguard, and mopar. they are all made by fleetguard, a division of cummins. they are extremely tolerance, down to just a couple microns. ALL other filters let debris into the fuel system. napa, wix, fram, stp, etc are all bad filters. aftermarket filters can let as much as 40 microns or more pass into the system. drivers using aftermarket fuel filters are having injectors replaced at 75,000 miles because of wear. aftermarket oil filters have also been destroying engines. the biggest culprit has been fram. the paper element in the filter actually loses some of its fiber. it goes straight from teh oil cooler coming out of the filter into the j jet gallery. teh j jets are nozzles with small openings that spray the bottoms of the pistons with cooled oil to keep them cool. the first place the filter fibers go is into the j jet holes and clogs them. the pistons promplty melt. it is not the engine’s fault, it is the cheap oil filter, so it is not a warrantable repair. i wonder what teh dealer means by bad fuel. are tehy saying it was contaminated or what? if you have had gasoline in your tank it will destroy the injectors and teh pump. have you every put gas in it? the diesel is the only thing that lubricates and cools the pump and injectors and gas does not lubricate. the tolerances in the pump are extremely tight. if you hold one of the pump ipstons in your hand and let it warm up, it expands enough that it will not install into the bore of the pump. you see how quickly it can ba damaged. as for the repair itself, you might be able to do it if you are pretty mechanically inclined. you need to remove the lines from the rail. remove the valve cover, all 6 exhaust rocker arms. remove the air intake tube and heater grid from head. remove the injector harness. remove the connector tube nuts from outside the head. you will need a connector tube puller. you can get one from miller tools, snap on, etc. remove all connector tubes. remove the 2 8mm bolts holding each injector. there is a special puller for the injector, but i have had good luck pulling them out with channel locks. be careful not to break the plastic top. reinstall new injector. hand tighten the mounting bolts just barely by hand. install the connector tube and nut, and hand tighten. (11 ft lbs) alternately tighten the injector bolts to 89 in lbs. do a final torque on the connector tube nut to 37 ft lbs. repleat 5 more times. reinstall teh rocker arms, torque, adjust valve lash. reinstall all fuel lines. remove belt. remove pump nut cover from timing cover. remove teh nut from the pump shaft. do not drop lockwasher into timing cover, you will have to go in after it. remove inlet, outlet, and return lines from injector pump. remove the pump to timing cover nuts. use a steering wheel puller to pop gear loose from pump shaft. remove pump. clean new pump shaft and pump gear with window cleaner. all sulphur has to be removed. if it is reinstalled with oil on the gear or shaft, you torque the shaft nut down against the oil. teh sulphur crushes and becomes just like graphite-a lubricant. the gear can spin on the shaft and destroy the pump and gear. reinstall the pump, torque nut to around 110 ft lbs (email me if you do this and i will give you the exact spec). reinstall everything. engine will start on its own. you do not have to open any lines to bleed it. opening a line is extremely dangerous. the reman injectors are $580 each, the pump is 2170. the brans new pump is 2425, teh new injectors are 1035 apeice. i would definitely go with the reman stuff. just a little hint–go to a big truck shop that is a cummins dealer. tehy will get you teh exact same parts as a chrysler dealer but may be cheaper. feel free to email if you have any more questions.

    wow. i guess time flies when you are typing about diesels!
    References :
    chrysler diesel tech

  2. goodfella8243 Says:

    February 3rd, 2013 at 9:28 am

    This is not the first time I have seen this situation where a dealer refuses to honor a warranty because of bad fuel. This is a tricky situation, because how were you supposed to know the fuel was bad to begin with? I find it very hard to believe that you can actually get "bad" fuel these days. Also, if the fuel was bad it really isn’t the dealers fault that the fuel was bad either. I think the responsibility would lie with the station you bought the fuel from, as they should be selling good clean fuel. Since you’ve already had the fuel in question tested and it has come out to be good, you probably will want to call the dealership and tell them they need to check themselves and fix your truck, and let them know you’ll be talking to an attorney otherwise.
    As far as doing the work yourself, changing the injection pump is actually a pretty easy job on the 03-07 5.9 Common Rail Cummins. I have done two of them myself. It is about a 3 hour job. Changing injectors is a little more complicated and can take you the better part of a day. It’s a job better left for someone that knows a bit about these engines, not someone just looking to save a few bucks.
    I recommend you join a discussion forum, where I know that there are some other people who have experienced the exact same situation. I will list a few below that are specific to Dodge/Cummins.
    References :
    http://www.dieseltruckresource.com
    http://www.cumminsforum.com

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